Wall decoration made of split staves

The wood can be split in place of sawing and planing, leaving the surface with its natural structure. Traditional materials are used to split travertine, marble and limestone as the so-called. raw boards. Slates also retain their raw surface.

By splitting the wood, we find it, that its surface, similar to traditionally split materials, it has wavy fibers, appearances and lows as well as clear rings of annual growth. Only the surface needs to be varnished, so that it does not get dirty. The surface of the decorative element to be split should not be large, because it will stick directly to the plaster. The format of split slats must be adapted to the unevenness of the base.

Split slats can be laid:

- showrooms with side lighting, jarzeniowym, the bottom of the ramp is also lined with split slats;

- in the dining room as a background for ornamental plants;

- in bedroom, in combination with indirect lighting.

The production of slats is cumbersome. Various types of wood can be used, mainly expressive hair, like a pine tree, larch, spruce, fir, ash, robinia, oak and elm.

Thick lumber 24 mm (they can be short) is cut to a length of approx 1 m. This cut is easy to work with. Greater lengths are not excluded, e.g.. 2 m.

Depending on the width of the material, the width of the future slats is determined; as a rule 50-70 mm. After the incision is equally wide, the so-called. friezes, they are scraped on all four sides. The machining accuracy requirements are as follows:

- the assumed width of all boards must be the same,

- the thickness of the boards may vary, they may even be unattended.

The boards are then cut to the exact length on the circular saw, assuming it at 120-150 mm. If the wood is of high quality, with an even course of fibers, an upper limit of length may be taken. If the lumber is of lower quality - the lower limit of the length is assumed.

The splints are split as follows: on a sharp knife, e.g.. for cutting cold meats, the frieze is set up and it is split into two pieces with a hammer. If the fibers are too deviating from the splitting plane, can happen, the so-called. wedge splitting. The splitting must then be repeated from the thick end. However, you will then only get one item. The wedges resulting from splitting can be used for shorter elements, at the ends of walls or ceilings. With the pro-scratch material of the wedge elements, there will be very little waste.

The figure shows the method of splitting slats.

Drawing. The method of kneading split slats: a) ostrugany fryz, b) frieze cut into elements of equal length, c) splitting slats with a hammer

The installation of the slats is very simple. Subsoil, to which they are glued should be smooth and properly hardened. Preparation of the substrate for gluing boards has already been devoted to the article - Preparation of the substrate for gluing.

For sticking slats to a concrete substrate, plaster or brick, polyvinylacetate adhesives are the best, e.g.. Wmilep W.. The glue is applied to the back surface of the slat in two rows (drawing).

Drawing. The method of applying glue to the underside of the slat: a) glue squeezed out of the tube, b) impression of glue after pressing it against the wall

Do not apply too much glue, as well as in one row, in the middle, as this causes the lamellas to warp and create, the so-called. trough. Applying glue directly to the wall would speed up the sticking process, but then the slat is more likely to warp. The glue is a dispersion of vinyl acetate with the addition of a filler, resin and preservative.

The greatest attention should be paid to gluing the first row, which should not be glued close to the floor, for it is not generally equal. As a rule, work begins at a height of 30-40 cm from the floor. The line for sticking the first row is marked as horizontal, with an even batten against the wall and supported on the floor. If the adhesive has the correct density, the foundation is even and absorbent, and the adhesive layer is of the correct thickness, then, to stick the slat, it is enough to press it down with your hand. The final hardening of the joint and obtaining a durable joint takes place only after a few hours.

Before applying the batten that marks the first row of slats to the wall, determine the height of the first row, which the last rows will depend on: at the ceiling and floor. In general, cutting the slats or at the ceiling is never avoided, be at the floor. Better though (more comfortable) cut the slats in a row next to the floor. It would also be advisable, so that the position of switches and electric sockets is at the height of the slat module.

Deposition of dust on the front surfaces of the slats can be prevented, sticking them with the thicker end down.

The pattern for laying split slats may vary (see picture).

Drawing. Different patterns for laying split slats.

We consider the first one on the left from the top to be the best. However, it requires precise slats. The other formulas only need to be accurate in one, with dimensions.

The surface should be finished only after the sticks are attached. As a foundation, while maintaining the natural color of the wood, capon varnish is used. Primer pigment varnishes can also be used. A polyurethane varnish is used on the surface. Topcoat is applied at least twice. After each painting, the surface should be rubbed with a plastic brush. .

A lighting block made of split slats is a good complement to a wall lined with such slats. Light diffused by a split wood-lined surface, gives a pleasant and peculiar feeling.

The lighting block is similar to a curtain rod. It is covered with split slats on the front and sides, and closed at the bottom and top with frosted glass. Inside there are light bulbs with a holder and wires (drawing).

Drawing. Lighting block made of split slats: a) solution 1: the ramp is covered with split slats, b) alternative cross-section 1, c) solution 2 - a ramp made of knotty slats, d) alternative cross-section 2; 1 - split slats, 2 - support frame, 3 - knotty polished slats, 4 - frosted glass, 5 - hammered small support catches, 6 - matte bulb

Such lighting is placed at a height of approx 2 m above the floor. However, it should be remembered, that the electric cables must not come into direct contact with the wood. They should be placed on a non-flammable pad.

If we use knotless for a wall covering, split pine sticks (the wood must not be blue), it is possible to use slats with Hooks for the lighting block, which, however, must be healthy and compatible with the wood. The size of the knots can be any. Wood splinters, thickness up to 20 mm, with resin knots, can be glued together without a support frame. Strength of the lamp cover of the lighting block glued with slats (variant 2 in the picture above) it is lower than that glued to the support frame (variant 1). Therefore, its length should not exceed 500 mm.